#NYFW SS15 pt.7 - Michael Kors, Hugo Boss & Proenza Schouler

No one loves and appreciates and constantly reinvents American sportswear as much as Mr. Michael Kors. Whether it's a glamazonian approach (smoky eyes and a fur shrug) or a more pared down type of thing (as was seen yesterday - barely there make-up and a loose braid), it's always super wearable, luxurious, and comfortable. This time around he was apparently inspired by Gossip Girl-like vacations in the Hamptons. Going to town for lunch in a floral day dress, heading to the beach in a strappy 50's inspired bikini (perfectly modeled by Candice Swanepoel) or chilling by a bonfire in white summer knits sound like Blair Waldorf's itinerary during her summer break. All the Kors staples his usual customers salivate for were on show - voluminous midi-skirts, crisp white dress shirts, menswear inspired blazers and classic taupe and chocolate leather bags. Although the designs were safe by all accounts, Kors did confirm a few trends we've been spotting during the week (gingham, anyone?). I feel like you simply can't write anything bad about a Michael Kors collection, just because he is simply the best at what he does, so why change now?

Jason Wu truly made a name for himself when he dressed Michelle Obama for her inaugural ball what feels like forever ago and some of the pantsuits he presented for Hugo Boss felt like an audition for dressing Hillary Clinton. That amusing thought was basically what kept me interested through his presentation. A lot has been invested into reinvigorating Hugo Boss and I bet miracles are expected from Mr. Wu. Unfortunately, with his latest show he didn't really deliver. Paneled shifts and sheer overlays over strapless snug cocktail dresses weren't particularly memorable. Wu's talent shined as the last few girls (including house muse Edie Campbell) walked the runway. The look before the last was gorgeous - a nude body-con, deep-V dress with strategically placed shiny embellished panels (in my weird mind) had front row guests Zoe Saldana and Kate Bosworth fighting over who gets to wear it at a future red carpet appearance.

The diversity of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler never fails to amaze me. After a few lamentations on minimalism and last season's study of animal prints, the time came for Proenza Schouler to leave their mark on classic American sportswear (in quite a different way than Michael Kors [see above]). Fashion connoisseurs will agree that Jack and Laz make a mean ass (leather) jacket and so it was this season. Particular favorites include a cobalt blue boxy piece and a longer acid orange python coat. The interesting use of leather didn't stop there - long-sleeve dresses were finely perforated. I really loved the duality certain pieces had - butter-soft leather track pants where one leg was black and the other strikingly red (the same with pleated midi-skirts). Polo shirts had their coolest incarnations in a long time with leather panels and collars, whereas intricate, technically advanced knits provided texture Proenza is so known for. What took me a bit by surprise were the final looks - swinging fringes were the perfect blend of raw and sophisticated, mostly so when paired with stitched rhombuses as sweaters. Sounds silly. Looks beyond amazing.

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