Runway Review: Marc Jacobs Spring 2014

You hope and you hope and then comes Marc Jacobs with a show so special that it manages to blow your mind despite the fact that you're watching the live feed at 2 a.m. with bloodshot eyes and headphones blaring Woodkid so you wouldn't fall asleep.

Jacobs' slot to close New York Fashion Week is so damn appropriate. No one in this fashion metropolis can touch him, a fact that becomes more clear as seasons go by. The Big Apple is painfully in shortage of true fashion shows and showmen. Granted, there has been some great (mostly white) clothes, but it all becomes yawn-worthy when it's time for Jacobs to show his unique vision for next spring.

In true Marc Jacobs fashion, the set was incredible. Grey sand embellished with cigarette butts and (I kid you not) torn up Vogues, fans blowing hot air on the guests (thankfully, fans were provided), a decrepit lifeguard's chair - an abandoned beach?

A thing that I've always appreciated so much when it comes to Marc Jacobs' abilities as a designer is that he manages to take these twisted little stories and elements and turn them into the most beautiful gems of collections. This time, compared to last season, it felt much more complex and (dare I say) haunting.

First and foremost, there were no head-to-toe white looks. Jacobs' ability and willingness to go against the grain each and every time is awe-worthy. I have this vision that he receives The Book that (allegedly) circulates amongst designers in all the fashion capitals right before it's time to show their latest work, takes one look at it and says: Fuck it!

A mishmash of inspirations and references, this show was a true delight to dissect and get at least a glimpse into Marc's mind. The first word that popped up as the first girl was storming the runway was boyish. In my it's-past-my-bedtime haze, I saw something that resembled embellished boardshorts paired with a heavily embroidered, tasselled (and what not) jacket with huge shoulders in a deep, fall-like color. Present day California on the bottom, 19th century Europe on top.

Prints were also a big story for Jacobs. Palm leaves and pansies done in muted colors such as forest green, midnight blue and aubergine evoked a somewhat darker summer. As I said, ominous vibe all over.

Every single piece just felt so rich, yet almost grungy at the same time. Rich sparkly embroidery, tassels and mini pom-poms all over were the most perfect antidote to the many (almost) clinical collection we've seen this week.

Marc's Victorian inspiration really came through at the end of the collection. He usually tends to shy away from designing too much eveningwear, but this time around there was plenty of it and each piece was more beuatiful than the one before. Giant pansies in the darkest shades of primary colors were done in what seemed to be the lightest knits (with a shiny thread here and there...it is Marc Jacobs' favorite color).

The real stunners were gothic black dresses with inflated shoulders and intricate embroidery and lace around the neckline. The thing that made them truly stand out was the fact that they completely covered the body, yet were still quite sexy. Leave it to Marc to make period dressing anything but boring and predictable.

What might have been the biggest contrast we've seen in New York was the way Marc and Katie Grand paired the accessories with the clothes. Think sporty, Nike-like sandals (the show was held on an imaginary beach on Lexington Avenue) and embroidered slipper shoes (gorgeous, BTW) for a granny-meets-cheesy-tourist vibe. It baffles me how he made it work.

The girls all looked quite boyish. The hair was bicolored (yay!) and done in a way that I'd compare to Anna Wintour's haircut gone terribly awry. The casting was also impeccable...the ultimate mix of up-and-coming models, Marc's muse Jamie Bochert, songstress Sky Ferreira and everyone's favorite BrIt girls Cara Delevigne and Edie Campbell. The front row was equally as cool with women such as Drew Barrymore, Michelle Dockery and Christina Ricci fanning themselves in the fake heat.

What I liked most about this show was that Marc Jacobs contradicted absolutely every American designer and still ended up the winner. It is now dawning on me that Jacobs could be the most brilliant designer working today. Bow down!

Red Carpet Wishlist

Photos from Style.com

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