Runway Review: Calvin Klein Spring 2014

It's been 10 years since Francisco Costa took the helm of the house of Calvin Klein. Being one of the epitomes of American minimalism and sportswear, Costa's vision fit in perfectly with the house's DNA. Although I was expecting a celebratory Best Of type collection, what I saw was something so different - and better, I might add. Unfortunately, I haven't really loved a Calvin Klein collection in quite some time, so I'm incredibly glad that this one (almost) floored me.

If I had to describe this collection with one word, it would be - unfinished...but wait, it's not what you think. I mean it in a literal sense. Costa opened his show with a pitch perfect (shocker) white cocktail dress with (and I may be wrong with this term) flaps on one side. It almost seemed as if fabric had been wrapped around the model's body and then just casually sewn (or stapled even) on one side. As the girls walked the runway, the all-white looks were broken apart with flesh-like pink on the sides. Color peek-a-boo.

A juxtaposition that I really liked was that there were tougher and gentler fabrics on show. For example, we were able to see sheer white (trend alert!) and black tunics, as well techno bouclé dresses and suits in pastels. I know it seems very Chanel-like, but the futuristic cuts make it ultra modern.

Francisco Costa also didn't feel like hemming this season. The rough-around-the-edges pieces looked like 21st century takes on waspy skirt suits. Costa's seemingly casual approach to the fabric created interesting patterns such as controlled pleats (another trend alert!) and fringe.

In all the time that I've been following fashion (since circa 2007) I cannot remember seeing fringe on a Calvin Klein runway. Perhaps that's why it worked so well. It was gorgeously rich and classy (unlike at Rodarte). I deem the pieces flapper dresses from the far off future.

It's no wonder that the front row was packed with A-listers considering the celebratory nature of this show. Costa's latest muse Rooney Mara, red carpet queen Nicole Kidman and up-and-coming fashionista Naomie Harris were all in attendance.

I have to tip my cap to Mr. Costa because this is the way you're supposed to do an anniversary fashion show. Give us a hint of what's to come and prove to us you deserve to be in this position. Here's to ten more!

Red Carpet Wishlist

Photos from Style.com

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