Runway Review: Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2014

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana love their comfort zone. Coincidentally, their happy place is also the place they come from - Sicily. This time around, the focus was more on the historic aspects Greece had on Sicilian culture in a very fun and quite literal way.

Cue the ruin prints (and I'm not even kidding). The show opener was a classy T-shirt dress with a magnified print of an ancient ruin. Dolce & Gabbana's continuation of playing with prints was an amazing way to introduce the entire collection. What surprised me the most was the literal way the prints were conveyed (digitalized, then printed) on to the fabric. Very Katrantzou-y.

What came next was in complete contrast to the sleek opening numbers - floral applique (hand printed silk, BTW) placed on uber-feminine A-line dresses (preferably with bell sleeves).

Continuing the history references, Dolce and Gabbana definitely had money on their mind. Ancient coins, that is. They adorned basically every single look - whether applied on loose updos, serving as oversize belt buckles or printed on to matching tops and skirts.

I dare you not to think lace and animal print when I say Dolce & Gabbana. Well, the guys (finally) decided to give the old tiger a rest, but the lace and lingerie were on show. Oh, and so were the white dots on black transparent chiffon dresses.

There is always a cinematic feel to a Dolce & Gabbana collection. It's like Fellini directs their every show. From the classical music playing in the background to the stunning catwalkers such as Catherine McNeil and Kate King evoking Italian screen sirens in their seductive slip dresses - some looks were simply dreamy.

Famously, instead of a classic defilé, Dolce and Gabbana send their girls out stomping at the end of the show dressed in a themed look. This time it was gold. It seemed very appropriate, considering it is the color of Olympic champions.

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Runway Review: Marni Spring 2014

There has been some quirk missing in Milan this week. Aside from Prada, the only taste of it we got was at Marni and even there it was very purified and (surprisingly) minimal.

I always find Consuelo Castiglioni's collections for Marni tiny fashion gems that not everyone wears (or even knows) except for fashion's top echelon (read: Anna Wintour). After I've done a little research on this cute, but enigmatic brand (circa their H&M collab ages ago), I found out that the reason why I always love their shows is British Vogue fashion editor Lucinda Chambers who works with Casitglioni styling every show.

Castiglioni's amazing design was again enhanced by Chambers' styling talents as was witnessed with the first look that walked on the runway - gigantic white palazzo trousers and a simple black tee sound really basic (and let's face it - they are) but the amazing accessories they were paired with are everyhing but. Get this: a freakin' visor (in love with those, for some weird reason), an architectural necklace (sunglasses and lipsticks were involved) and, I kid you not, platform flip-flops. Quirky perfection.

Prints have always had a huge role in Marni collections (especially spring/summer ones), but this time they took the backseat. The specimens we did get a glimpse of were stunners, though. Abstract tulips and orchids climbing their way up sleek, belted silhouettes were ultra-modern and are sure to wind up on Anna's shopping list.

The last bit of the collection was in full bloom - literally. Painted little flowers were applied on classic shaped tops and skirts. Oh, and if that wasn't fabulous enough, guess what they were accesorized with? Jewel encrusted visors. A fashion hole in one, I say.

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Runway Review: Emilio Pucci Spring 2014

After the more-than-minimal Jil Sander show, the time came for something completely opposite - the maximalism of Peter Dundas for Emilio Pucci. Since he took the helm of this famed Italian fashion house, he produced great collections season after season and according to the one I saw last night - he's showing no signs of stopping.

Sexy being in his M.O., the first look (worn by Joan Smalls) came as no surprise - high voltage tapestry print skirt and a leather version of a rock T-shirt. Hot music festival somewhere in the Mediterranean?

The 80s rock'n'roll vibe of the collection increased with each new exit - wildly colored harem pants (it is Pucci, after all), inevitable crop tops and gigantic buckled belts proved to be garments of fashion champions.

I also detected quite a lot of street influences which was a great change of pace considering last season (sexy collegiate girls). Mesh, jersey-like tops, sporty short-shorts (in visually screeching silver) and even freakin' raincoats. What was great about them was that I could imagine girls and women alike clamoring to get their hands on them.

One of the main characteristics of this show was that it's perfect (and I do mean perfect) for the young starlets of Hollywood. Exhibit A. A dress consisting of a tiny bodice and a beautfully draped silk skirt in a vivid color. Exhibit B. A fabulous sequined mini in rainbow shades. Exhibit C. A black column gown with silver, couture-like sleeves is made for the Golden Globes or even the Emmys tongiht.

Peter Dundas is kind of known for his rock'n'roll, party boy lifestyle and it apparently serves him, and the house of Pucci, extremely well.

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Runway Review: Jil Sander Spring 2014

Let's face it: Milan is not a minimalist fashion capital. It's best known for high voltage glamour (a.k.a. animal prints chez Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana) and luxury to the fullest (Gucci and Fendi), so today's Jil Sander show felt like a fish out of water...in sort of a good way.

Ever since she took back the helm of her fashion maison, I've been waiting for Jil Sander to really wow me. Don't get me wrong, the past two collections were lessons in crisp minimalism, but there was no kick to them. Unfortunately, the same can be said of today's presentation.

Firstly, I was kind of ticked off when the official site broke down so I couldn't enjoy the show how I like it - in real time. I had to take to my Twitter account and refresh over and over again for new Instagram shots from the show. Now that I've vented, let's talk about why you're really here - the clothes.

Sander confirmed one of the major trend by merely opening show. Oh yeah, you guessed it - the crop top. The look was put together in a cool way - a fitted cropped blazer covered the top paired with borrowed-from-the-boys capris.

It should come as no surprise that the color palette was monochromatic, aside from a few nude colored coats. Clean? Yes. Crisp? Yes. A tad boring? Yes. A jolt of color was provided by (only) three looks with a wild camo-meets-collage print in primary colors.

Sander stuck to the silhouette most in her comfort zone - the belted one. After last season's statement buckles, this time it was a tad more streamlined (if possible) and 90s inspired.

Minimalism is well and fine but after seeing this show, I can't help but wonder if minimal is at times just code for not enough?


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Runway Review: Roberto Cavalli Spring 2014

Just as I was beginning to think that the fashion world was over with 20s as their go-to decade, in comes Roberto Cavalli with his latest show and messes up my entire theory. The Gatsby era is apparently alive and well on this designer's inspiration board.

The show didn't start out with flapper inspired looks, though. The first girl that stormed the runway was dressed in an exotic skin metallic leather jacket paired with low-waisted embellished pants. The craftsmanship that went into both pieces was quite impressive (as per usual).

Cavalli's versions of Daisy Buchanan came soon after and were nice enough renditions of this, by now, overwrought theme. The looks I loved the most were the smokey embroidered slip dresses with a fur stole in the same shade casually thrown over the model's shoulder.

I feel that an item that is sort of becoming a Cavalli staple is a really smart and skinny pantsuit (worn by the likes of Solange Knowles and Karolina Kurkova). Plenty of those were on show, only done in much calmer shades of green, blue and pink with the inevitable impeccable tailoring. Some of those tuxedo jackets could be considered investment pieces, because you can wear them with basically everything you have in your closet.

The looks that really evoked summer for me were the billowing caftan dresses in muted prints which gave them a vintage-y feel so perfect for lounging somewhere in the south of France.

Tuxedo jackets and cigarette pants aside, the reason most women look to Roberto Cavalli is his eveningwear and boy, they will have a lot to choose from for next spring. The gowns shown were pretty mild and tame for Cavalli - pastel hues, simple construction (a.k.a. no slits) and full coverage. What I feel were fresh additions were black and white crochet dresses that appeared as easy and light as lace. Needless to say, I'll die if I see one of Cavalli's muses rocking one of the gowns with a fur stole...preferably in July or August.  

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