Up-and-comer Wes Gordon started us off with a unique take on minimalism reminiscent of the great heyday of Jil Sander. The simple lines in which the monochromatic sweaters and skirts were cut in had all the qualities of staples in any woman's wardrobe. But it was Gordon's interesting use of lace and fabrics such as sweatpants-cotton (I coined that just now) that really caught my eye. A pretty simple strapless creamy white dress was much enhanced with the addition of contrasting black lace around the neckline and hem. As for the "sweatpants looks", I'm guessing they may work in editorial settings or the everyday life of Miley Cyrus. My absolute favorite moment (and today's Look of the Day a.k.a #LOTD) was a mesh-adorned cashmere sweater paired with chic black cigarette pants. I just saw it as the definition of what the Vogue editors frequently call "the day-to-night look". A cool minimalistic sneaker will get you through the day, whereas the addition of a Louboutin stiletto will transition you into the nighttime vamp.
If you knew a bit about the design esthetic Jason Wu has become known for in the past few years (red carpet-ready gowns), you would never have tried to compare him to Wes Gordon. Well, Wu's latest presentation changed that and marks the designer's radical turn into unknown territory - minimalism. As Saskia de Brauw (not Karlie, not Joan) opened the show in a marble print skirt suit you could see that this would be some sort of Wu-point-oh collection. What came to follow only confirmed everyone's predictions - crisp white palazzo pants, a slip dress in the same (non) hue and, most memorably, a suede T-shirt dress and wrap coat. Quite a turn, wouldn't you say? The young designer also felt inspired by the chic utilitarianism of Carolyne Bessette Kennedy (as was Gordon, I imagine) and used plenty of navy, denim-like fabrics to create the ultimate working woman's uniform. The Wu young ladies of New York City know and love came through in the last few pieces - relaxed, yet glamorous sequined midi-dresses in coral, forest green and midnight blue. Celebrity stylists have probably already commissioned the last two looks for their clients considering their vibrant hues and evocative nonchalance are perfect for a big summer premiere.
The equivalent of Wu going all minimalist on us was the mustard yellow, knee-length shift with a ruffle-adorned neckline Rianne Ten Haken strutted her stuff in while opening the latest Cushnie et Ochs fashion show. The female design duo best known for black or white ultra sexy dresses with strategically placed cut-outs threw us a bit of a curve ball with a rather sophisticated and ladylike presentation. Their strong and colorful message was also conveyed in a few dark blue pieces that featured a particularly stunning asymmetric gown with a triangular cutout on the torso and a flowing train. Their more romantic customer will surely respond to delicate pink ruffled and pleated dresses, whereas the city-slicker will go for the monochromatic body-hugging pieces.The models' styling, as well as the heavy metal jewellery (think arm cuffs and chokers; both felt a tad redundant after Sarah Burton did them at McQueen a year ago) made me think of urban warriors and it seems like a woman wearing Cushnie et Ochs will surely win the battle AND the war.
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